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Troubleshooting Air conditioning

AC troubleshooting: find your symptom, then the fix

Most AC "failures" come down to a filter, a capacitor, or a drain line. Find your exact symptom in the map below — each routes to the fix, its likeliest cause, and whether it's a free DIY check or a licensed-technician repair.

AC acting up? Nine symptoms mapped to their likeliest cause — each a free check or a licensed repair.

Which AC symptom matches yours?

Pick the line that sounds like your system. Each row names the searcher's symptom, its likeliest cause, and whether you're looking at a DIY check or a licensed repair — the linked ones open a full walkthrough, and the rest are covered by the universal checks below.

Won't turn on at all DIY–PRO Breaker, disconnect, float switch, or capacitor Fix it → Runs but not cooling DIY–PRO Filter, thermostat, dirty coils, or refrigerant Fix it → Low on refrigerant (signs) PRO A leak — never normal consumption Fix it →
Frozen coil / ice on lines DIY–PRO Airflow or refrigerant; thaw before diagnosing Universal checks ↓
Leaking water indoors DIY–PRO Clogged condensate drain line Universal checks ↓
Bad smells from the vents DIY–PRO Mold, wiring, or drain-pan growth Universal checks ↓
Loud or new noises PRO Fan, motor, or compressor fault Universal checks ↓
Short-cycling on and off PRO Sizing, capacitor, or thermostat placement Universal checks ↓
Runs constantly, never satisfies DIY–PRO Heat-wave overload, dirty coil, or undersizing Fix it →
On this page
  1. Find your symptom
  2. What to check first
  3. Most common repairs
  4. The heat-wave check
  5. Window units & when to call
  6. FAQ

What should you check first, whatever the symptom?

Before diagnosing anything specific, these six checks rule out the culprits behind most AC calls — and every one is free. Work them in order; a clogged filter or a tripped float switch alone accounts for a large share of what feel like total failures. The list names each check and what it rules out:

  1. Thermostat. On COOL, set 3°F below room temp, batteries fresh. A dead cell blanks the whole system.
  2. Air filter. Hold it to a light — if none passes through, replace it. A clogged filter sits behind a large share of AC 'failures.'
  3. Breaker + outdoor disconnect. Reset the breaker once, then check the gray disconnect box by the outdoor unit — a pulled fuse block there is the most-missed cause.
  4. Condensate float. A full drain pan or clogged line trips a float switch that shuts cooling off on purpose to protect your ceiling.
  5. Condenser clearance. Clear 2 ft around the outdoor unit and rinse the coil — a coil choked with cottonwood or grass can't shed heat.
  6. 3-minute rule. After power returns the compressor waits up to three minutes by design. A unit that seems dead may just be counting down.

Cleared all six and it still won't cool? The remaining causes are internal — a capacitor, refrigerant, a motor, or the control board — and that's licensed-technician territory.

Coverage check

Checks done, still not cooling?

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What are the most common AC repairs — and what do they cost?

When the free checks don't solve it, the fault is almost always one of six parts. This list is ordered by how often each actually comes up in summer, with a typical installed price range so you know the repair before the tech arrives:

1. Failed capacitor$150–$400

The most common summer repair — the outdoor unit hums but won't start, or the fan won't spin.

2. Refrigerant leak$225–$1,600

Find-and-fix, then recharge — never just a top-off, because low charge always means a leak.

3. Clogged drain / float switch$100–$275

The line backs up and the float shuts cooling off to protect your ceiling.

4. Contactor$150–$350

Pitted relay contacts stop the outdoor unit from switching on.

5. Condenser fan motor$300–$700

The outdoor fan won't spin, so the unit overheats and trips out.

6. Control board$300–$700

Less common; usually diagnosed only after the cheaper parts are cleared.

Full part-by-part pricing lives on AC repair cost, and the visit fee itself on HVAC service call cost.

Why can't my AC keep up on the hottest days?

Sometimes nothing is broken at all. On a 95–100°F+ day a correctly working AC only holds a 15–20°F difference between the air it pulls in and the air it blows out — so an undersized or aging system running flat-out and still losing ground is overloaded, not faulty. The way to tell them apart is the vent split, not the room temperature:

On a 100°F day a working AC blows air 15–20°F cooler than the return air; a split under 15°F means it needs service, while 15–20°F means it's at capacity, not broken.
Feel a supply vent against the return air — a 15–20°F split means the system is working, even when it can't beat the heat.

If the split holds 15–20°F, there's no part a technician can swap to beat physics — the fix is shade, sealing, or a right-sized system, covered in AC running but not cooling and what size AC you need. A split under 15°F, though, points to low charge or a dirty coil, and that's worth a call.

Does this cover window units — and when should you call?

This guide covers central and split systems. For a window or portable unit, the fix is usually the manufacturer's reset button plus a clean filter — beyond that they're cheap enough to replace rather than repair. Once you've cleared the universal checks and matched your symptom on a central system, the internal repairs above — capacitor, refrigerant, motors, board — are licensed-technician work, because they involve sealed refrigerant circuits and high voltage. One safety line worth repeating: a capacitor holds a charge even with the power off, so opening the outdoor panel is a real shock hazard.

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Frequently asked questions

What's the first thing to check when the AC isn't working?

The thermostat (on COOL, set below room temp, fresh batteries), then the air filter, then the breaker and outdoor disconnect. Those four cover most calls and cost nothing.

Why did my AC suddenly stop?

A sudden stop on a hot day is usually a tripped breaker, a failed capacitor overheating, or a full condensate drain tripping the float switch. Listen at the outdoor unit: a hum with no spin points to the capacitor.

Should I turn the AC off if it's not cooling?

Yes if you see ice on the lines or hear grinding — running it then damages the compressor. Otherwise leave it on and work the checks, since most causes are safe to diagnose while it runs.

What's the most common cause of AC failure?

A failed capacitor is the single most-routed summer repair, followed by refrigerant leaks and clogged condensate drains. A clogged air filter sits behind a surprising share of 'failures' too.

How do I know if it's the compressor or the capacitor?

Both can leave the outdoor unit humming without starting. The capacitor is far more common and far cheaper, so a technician tests it first — a bad capacitor is a quick swap, while a failed compressor is a major repair.

How long should the AC run on a hot day?

On a design-temperature day it may run almost continuously and still only hold a 15–20°F difference from outdoors — that's normal, not a fault. Check the vent split before assuming a failure.

How do I reset my air conditioner?

Turn it off at the thermostat, cut power at the breaker for 60 seconds, then restore power and wait up to three minutes before the compressor restarts. There's no separate 'reset' beyond cycling power and clearing a tripped safety switch.

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